Winter is different all around the world, and during this time of the year, it becomes a priority to stay warm and comfortable. Wool is an age-old fabric loved for centuries, and it remains the ultimate material for colder months.
Why? Wool offers warmth, durability, and other unique qualities that make it an exceptional choice for winter wear. Keep reading to find out.
Wool does not conduct heat. Due to its physical properties, wool doesn’t absorb the heat your body produces, which is why it is a great choice for winter. At the same time, wool fabric is a powerful insulator. Humans have recognised the insulating abilities of sheep’s wool for more than 10,000 years.
Wool fibres have natural kinks and bends, and they trap air to keep your body warm. Wool is renowned for its heat-trapping power and is also considered sustainable, recyclable insulation.
Wool adsorbs, not absorbs, moisture. Adsorption means that water molecules become trapped in the naturally porous fibres, whereas absorption occurs when water molecules permeate the fabric and the fabric becomes wet to the touch.
Unlike synthetic fabrics such as polyester, wool doesn’t melt, drip, or stick to the skin when it burns, and is widely known for its fire resistance and self-extinguishing capabilities.
Similarly, if it does catch fire, wool won’t emit toxic gas. Plus, it will produce less smoke than other fabrics. All of these fire-safe qualities stem from the fact that pure wool is made up of 100% natural proteins.
Shearing
Shearing is a process where the fleece of the sheep is cut to get the wool fibres. Each Sheep is sheared once a year. The fleece of an average sheep is roughly between 6 and 18 pounds. Most of the sheep are sheared by hand; however, modern technologies exist and have enabled the shearing of sheep with computers and robot-controlled arms. This process of shearing is critical in the journey of wool.
Ethical farmers use skilled and trained shearers who follow best practices to ensure the well-being of the animals. Animal welfare is of utmost importance. Proper handling techniques and avoiding unnecessary stress contribute to a good shearing experience for the animals.
Grading
Once shorn, wool is sorted and graded based on its physical characteristics and quality. The best wool fibres usually come from the shoulders and sides of the sheep but other coarser fibres are the ones that come from the lower legs.
Key Grading Factors
Why grading matters? Grading determines the wool’s end use for instance, fine wool is used for luxury garments, while coarser wool is suited for carpets, insulation, or outerwear. The journey of wool determines its end use.
Scouring and Cleaning
Raw wool is not clean and often contains grease (lanolin), dirt, sand, and sweat residues known as suint. Scouring removes these impurities. The wool is passed through multiple rounds of warm water mixed with detergents and alkali to dissolve the grease.
This process is followed by multiple freshwater rinses, and then the wool is mechanically dried, which helps in removing insoluble particles. Clean wool fibres are then blended and conditioned, preparing them for further processing.
Carbonising and Neutralisation
Carbonising is aprocess of removing vegetable matter such as seeds, grass, and burs. The wool is treated with a sulphuric acid solution, baked at controlled temperatures, and passed through rollers that crush the carbonised plant material.
Neutralisation is a follow-up process and is used to remove any remaining acid from carbonising. The fibres are rinsed, treated in a soda bath, washed, and dried to ensure the wool is safe, clean, and stable.
Carding and Combing
Carding is used to separate and open wool fibres using metal teeth, forming one uniform strand called a sliver. This process also removes any remaining impurities. Carded wool produces softer, loftier fabrics with more texture, and in combed wool, short fibres are removed, and long fibres are aligned, resulting in smoother, stronger yarns (worsted wool).
Gilling, Drawing, and Spinning
Gilling is done to align fibres parallel to each other, while drawing blends and it evens out fibre thickness. A slight twist adds strength. Spinning transforms fibres into yarn by twisting them together. Woollen yarns are often mule-spun, while worsted yarns are produced using modern spinning machines. The yarn is then wound onto cones or bobbins for further processing.
Steaming and Stabilisation
Steaming sets the twist in the yarn and prevents snarling. After steaming, yarns are rested under cool conditions to maintain a moisture balance and stability, ensuring a smooth weaving or knitting experience.
Weaving or Knitting the Fabric
Wool yarn is converted into fabric through weaving or knitting. Usually, two different types of weave are seen: plain weave, which creates softer, looser fabrics that are warm and comfortable. Or twill weave, which produces stronger, more durable fabrics with refined designs. The wool structure directly impacts warmth, stretch, durability, and texture.
Finishing Processes
The final look of the textile is determined by the finishing processes. It makes a difference to the feel and performance of wool fabrics. Common processes involved in wool finishing include:
Dyeing may occur at the fibre, yarn, or fabric stage, though it’s most common during the fabric stage.
Modern Applications of Wool
Today, wool is used for more reasons than just winter clothing. It can be found in the components of performance apparel, home-decor textiles, and technical and industrial fabrics. It has the ability to regulate temperature, resist odours, and adapt to climate conditions, making wool suitable for both luxury and functional uses.
Sustainability and the Future of Wool
Wool is a renewable, biodegradable fibre that is best suited for conscious consumption. Additional factors in the process, like ethical sourcing, responsible farming, and then making sure manufacturers carry certifications, ensure transparency for customers and animal welfare, and wool comes out as a future-forward material in sustainable textiles.
Read about Kochartex’s sustainability practises here
Conclusion
The journey of wool, all the way from shearing and grading to spinning, weaving, and finishing, is a blend of tradition, science, and innovation. Wool, as a high-performance natural material, continues to prove its relevance in modern textiles while staying rooted in craftsmanship and sustainability.
The ideal fibre length is around 70 mm; it differs depending on shearing frequency and nutrition.
Unlike synthetic fabrics such as polyester, wool doesn’t melt, drip, or stick to the skin when it burns, and is widely known for its fire resistance and self-extinguishing capabilities
Wool is now used in more ways than just apparel, for instance, in home textiles, technical and industrial uses as well.
